The Camino Primitivo
The Camino Primitivo or “The Original Way” is the very first pilgrimage ever made to Santiago. There are two routes or “ways” that pass through the region of Asturias ,the other route is the Northern Coastal Route.
Pola de Lena is called the”Gate of Asturias” because it is what you will first see as you are head north from the plains of Leon in Spain. This is quite an impressive journey, positioned at the border between Leon and Asturias in which you have to pass a tunnel called “El Negron” (The Black One) which is 4.1km in length. As you exit the tunnel you are welcomed by the magnificent and vibrant beauty of the Mountains of Guerna Valley which makes quite an impressive picture.
In this area you have two types of landscapes, one of impressive natural beauty and the other more industrial in its makeup reminding you of its mining heritage and long industrial history.
The Central Mountains offer a wealth of Natural and Protected Spaces, leafy Beech and Oak forests, green mountain pastures, narrow valleys and large meandering rivers.
This natural beauty is juxtaposed with examples of past and present mining activity as Slack-heaps, mine entrances, Headframes, worker’s housing, etc dot the landscape. This is a real cornucopia for those who have an interest in Industrial architecture and landscapes. Mining has moulded Asturias and plays a significant part in her story so it is worth while learning about this history as it will help to understand the local community a bit more.
The area is home to a wealth of stone monuments, megalithic structures, necropolis and old settlements. Pola de Lena also acts as a crossroads of two significant trading routes and for that reason the area is well marked by a mixture of many cultures. The two main routes that cross the territory are the Route of the Silver and the Route of Santiago.
The Route of the Silver is Roman in origin and crosses the peninsula from north to south starting in Gijon, Asturias, and finishing in Seville, Andalucía. This was built to facilitate commerce and legion movement. After that, the route was mainly used by shepherds who took their livestock to the greener pastures of Asturias during the summer.
The Route of Santiago is the other significant route of the area. This section is known as the “El Salvador Route” which enters Asturias through the Pajares Mountain pass and down into Oviedo ending up at the San Salvador Cathedral where the route connects with “Primitive Route”.
Pola de Lena is truly the gate to the Principado de Asturias. The council lies at the foot of the impressive Massifs of The Principado de Asturias and it is a real paradise for nature lovers.
The Ubiñas-La Mesa Natural Park has one of the most important peaks in Asturias called Peña Ubiña and with a height of 2,417 metres it is an absolute playground for rock and ice climbers. Also, you can find the Protected Landscapes of the Aramo Massiff. Here you will take in the beauty of these mountains at the view points of “Flor de Acebo” and the impressive “Alto L’Palo”.
Within the area of Pola de Lena you will find the Valgrande Forest, a paradise for lovers of trekking as it is the largest beech forest in Asturias and home of Asturian Bears, Wolfs and Capercaillies (A type of Grouse).
There are many important cultural places to visit in Pola de Lena including the very popular pre-Romanic Church of Santa Cristina de Lena declared a site of UNESCO Heritage, The Xomezana as an example of ethnography and tradition and the historic area of Las Puentes declared of cultural interest and made up of the Church of San Martin, the old Rectory and the Medieval bridge.
Pola de Lena is the start of many Routes and it is also part of the La Carisa Way which is one of the pre-historic routes that connected Asturias with the rest of the peninsula. It was the first road built and widely used by the Romans to accommodate safe passage for their carriages. You can still see some of the original road preserved as you travel along its route. The Roman camp of La Carisa is located on the Curriel peak and at 1,728metres, it was the highest Roman military camp in Europe and could house up to approx 10,000 men.
The area of Pola De Lena is a fantastic place to do any kind of sports and is well set up for trekking, mountaineering, climbing, skiing, fishing, mountain biking, quad biking, horse riding, spelunking, paragliding, etc.
Two of the most important sporting activities in the area are climbing and skiing and is home to the Winter Ski Resort of Valgrande Pajares, the largest ski station in Asturias.
The other main attraction Pola de Lena is the Gastronomy offering a Asturias traditional fare based on Stews, Asturian reared beef, fish from the rivers, cheeses and Asturian desserts but the toast of the region is the succulent splayed Lamb slow roasted over an outdoor fire pit. This is a very nice Asturian tradition known locally as “Corderu a la Estaca” and takes place throughout the summer months. A lot of towns host these parties but the one held in Lena, called the Party of “Prau Llaguezu” which is celebrated the first Sunday of July, is the most popular and best organized one in Asturias. This party is declared of International Cultural Interest.
More info: Pola de Lena Tourist Office
If you want more information contact Where is Asturias at info@whereisasturias.com
Images supplied by Tomás Fano, Ayto de Pola de Lena, Montana Central and Turismo Asturias: Arnaud Spani.
The Council of Salas is a part of the Region of Vaqueiros which passes from coastal to inland towns of Asturias and is linked by the tradition of the seasonal migration of the livestock trade. The “vaqueiros” or cattle drivers began to inhabit this part of Asturias in the medieval times and the most distinctive aspect of this that still exists today are the Brañas or highland pastures where they used to breed their cattle.
Places of cultural interest are the Doriga Palace with a rural medieval style from the 15th century. As a curiosity this Palace has a batroom made of black marble. Also, the magnificent Cistercian Monastery of Cornellana and the town of Laneo with its Asturian rural buildings and Asturian food stores are of great ethnographic interest.
The main town of the council of Salas is the town of Salas. This is an enchanting town with a medieval essence which you can see a tower from the 14th century which is built on the foundations of the Pre-Romanesque church of San Martin and also the Valdes Salas Palace from the 16th century. Also worth a visit is the gothic Collegiate Church of Santa Maria la Mayor from the 17th century with an impressive alabaster Mausoleum of the Archbishop Fernardo Valdes Salas founder of the University of Oviedo and designed by the Italian sculptor Pompeyo Leoni.
Throughout the area of Salas you will find many “Indiano” houses. Asturias underwent large scale emigration at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century to the Americas, especially Cuba, Mexico, Argentina, Venezuela and the US. After the emigrants settled into their new homes and became wealthy they didn’t forget their roots and decided to build these magnificent houses to show off their new status as rich men. This style of very distinctive and characteristic architecture was almost always is accompanied by large ornate gardens of palm trees as a part of their identity. Also, a lot of the “Nouveau Riche” acted as sponsors and helped finance some basic needs in the towns like education, water or drainage. You can find many examples of this type of architecture in the picturesque town of Malleza, called “Little Habana” due to the extraordinary amount of well preserved Indiano Houses.
The council of Salas is a paradise for fisherman as it has one of the best Salmon Rivers in Spain, The Narcea River. Here, in the town of Cornellana, they celebrate every year the capture of “El Campanu” or the first Salmon of the season in the Asturian Rivers. This is fishing and hunting festival which holds a public auction for the first Salmon and in some occasions has reached bids of 12,000 euros.
The council of Salas is a part of the Route of Santiago called «The Primitive Route« and is one of the locations for the Pilgrims Hostal. Also you can find other walking Routes in the area like the River route of the Salmon.
The Gastronomy in this area is based on a traditional Asturian fare, with stews, Asturian reared beef, Chicken dishes, cured meats, sweet treats and Asturian cheeses but the toast of the area is the “carajitos” which are delicious hazelnut cookies.
More info: Salas Tourist Office
If you want more information contact Where is Asturias at info@whereisasturias.com
Oviedo city is the capital of the Principality of Asturias. It is a very elegant and enchanting city that invites you to wander through the medieval streets, enjoy amazing gastronomy, have a coffee in the charming cake shops and cafes, go shopping in their exquisite shops & boutiques, enjoy the art galleries and museums or have a drink in the busy bars and night clubs.
When describing Oviedo the words “Charming” and “Historic” always come to mind. You feel the sense of history in every step as you experience the impressive Old District and stroll among the Palaces, Churches, Convents and ancient buildings. It is recommended that visitors should see the 13th century Cathedral of San Saviour which is mainly gothic in design but it has also signs of Pre-Romanesque architecture. The Holy Chamber in the Cathedral is home to many religious relics such as the Cross of the Angels, an important symbol for the people of Oviedo. The Cross of Victory, which is the symbol used on the official flag of Asturias. Is also where the Sudarium of Oviedo can be found which is said to be the cloth that was wrapped around the head of Jesus Christ after his death.
In Oviedo you can find also very fine examples of Pre-Romanic art and architecture such as The Church of San Julian de los Prados, The Church of Santa Maria del Naranco or the church San Miguel de Lillo which have all been declared sites of World Heritage.
Oviedo is a very cultural city boasting streets full of beautiful fountains and sculptures and has plenty of Museums and Art Galleries to visit from archaeology to modern art.
The city has a tradition of distinguishing itself by hosting many cultural events including the yearly culture agenda packed with seasons of opera, classical music, ballet, theatre and exhibitions. These events are held in the different theatres and venues throughout the capital such as The Philharmonic Theatre, The Principe Felipe Auditorium or the Campoamor Theatre.
The Campoamor Theatre hosts the prestigious and globally recognised “Princess of Asturias Awards” ceremony every year. Prizes are awarded by the Princess of Asturias Foundation to individuals or organisations from around the world that contribute to notable achievements in the fields of sciences, humanities, and public affairs.
The cinema director Woody Allen, who was awarded the Prince of Asturias Award in 2002, said of the city «Oviedo is a delicious, exotic, beautiful, clean, pleasant, peaceful, pedestrianised city. It’s out of this world, like it’s too good to be true…Oviedo is like something out of a fairy tale«. He visited the city several times and choose it as one of the sets of «Vicky, Cristina, Barcelona». The city has devoted an statue to the filmmaker that you can visit at Milicias Nacionales street.
Oviedo is also home to many old and modern universities which offer a wide variety of different studies and programs in both Degrees and Masters.
The parks and public spaces of Oviedo tend to be of excellent quality and very well maintained offering visitors shade on a hot day and act as good meeting points. The main parks in the city are The Park of San Francisco, The Campillin and the Winter Park. There are also many different routes that stem from the city like the Oviedo green-belt or the Finnish Trail. Some of them are a little more difficult such as the San Melchor Trail or the Fuso de la Reina-L’Angliru Trail which ends at the highest point in Asturias. You can also take a car or bus and explore the surrounding towns of the County such as Las Caldas or Naranco.
Las Caldas is a very elegant small town near Oviedo that preserves the charm of the XVIII and XIX century when it was the playground of the nobility and bourgeoisie mainly because of the extraordinary beauty of their balneary resort called Royal Balneary of Las Caldas, built in 1776 ,with enormous richness of natural therapeutic factors. This spa was rehabilitated and revamped into a luxury hotel called Las Caldas Villa Termal keeping the spa, the spirit, and the magnificent building with a modern twist. Las Caldas also have one of the most popular public golf courses of Asturias.
In the council you can also find representations of industrial architecture in the area of Trubia with plenty of examples of the metallurgy and military heritage of Asturias.
Oviedo is also the beginning of one of the most important stages of the Camino of St. James (Route of Santiago). This part of the route is called “The Primitive Way” that starts from Oviedo and leads you towards Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. Oviedo is an essential stopping point for pilgrims who wish to visit the Cathedral of San Salvador (The Saviour) before leaving for Santiago……. as it is said in an old French song that “Those who visit Santiago before The Saviour, visit the servant but leave the Lord”
Oviedo is renowned in Spain for been a fantastic city to go shopping. The people of Oviedo take great pride in their public appearance and the high street is awash with the latest fashions and classic cuts. The city has several commercial centers dedicated to offering a wide range of fashion and style. At the centre of the city you can find several large streets with all the most important international and national brands while the little side streets are full of small and exclusive fashion boutiques.
Deciding where to eat in Oviedo is never too difficult as the gastronomy of the city is an excellent example of the finest Asturian traditional and modern cuisine. Oviedo is full of classic and modern restaurants, tapas bar, gastro bars, cake & coffee shops, and for those who love to go out and have fun, the city offers an amazing night life.
Oviedo is famous for its fine handmade biscuits and chocolates and it is a sin not to sample The Carbayones, The Moscovitas and stunning array of different types of chocolates.
The traditional parties of Oviedo are The Ascension fair, The Disarmament, Tuesday Field Festival.
More info: Oviedo Tourist Office
If you want more information contact Where is Asturias at info@whereisasturias.com
Images supplied by Tomás Fano
Aviles is a calm, relaxed and unexpected town. It is the perfect example of “You can’t judge a book by its cover”
Originally an industrial town, it is surrounded by the factories of the giants of the international Steel and Chemical markets such as Arcelor Mittal and Du Pont.
Once you pass the industrial scenes and get to the heart of the town you would be amazed by what the English writer Paul Richardson referred in his article for The Guardian “The Cinderella” of Asturias. This is a city with an old history, nice beaches, busy port, amazing gastronomy, incredible art scene and very welcoming people. And this is just 10 minutes from the Airport of Asturias.
Aviles was granted city status by King Alfonso VI. The Historic Center is crossed by very popular streets like Galiana, La Ferreria or Rivero where you can feel centuries of history through their buildings from the Middle Ages to the present day. In fact the city’s old district was declared of Historical and Artistic interest in 1955.
Walking their streets you will find amazing historical buildings with different architectural styles of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Art Nouveau. such as The Marques de Camposagrado, Valdecarzana, Marques de Ferrera Palaces, the Eladio Muñiz, García Pumarino or Arias de la Nozeda’s House.
If you are interested in Religious buildings you can’t miss the Alas’ Chapel, the Padres Franciscanos Church, The Building of Aviles City Hall, St. Francis‘s water spouts, San Nicolas de Bari Church, The Old Church of Sabugo or The Carriona Cemetery which for some is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Spain.
The streets are full of bars, taverns, restaurants and tapas bars and they offer a mix of traditional or creative Asturias and Spanish cooking. Aviles has a very important fishing port and therefore you will enjoy the most wonderful fish dishes and fresh seafood on offer. Also, you can not go to Aviles without trying their most popular cheeses La Peral and Gorfoli.
Arts and Culture are well represented throughout Aviles but none more so than the neo-baroque, Italian style Palacio Valdes Theatre, where you not only can enjoy the beauty of the old fashioned style coliseum theatre but also some very fine theatre productions such as Shakespeare’s The Tempest or Richard III delivered last year in original version by the acting troupe of the Old Vic Theatre in London.
It is also highly recommended that you take a visit the «Centro Cultural Internacional Oscar Niemeyer» (Centro Niemeyer), the amazing contribution of famous architect Oscar Niemeyer to the city of Aviles described by him by «a square open to the sea for all the men and women of the world, a place for cohabitation, education, culture and peace». The centers exhibition spaces, meeting rooms, cinema, auditorium and cafeteria have played host to Woody Allen, Kevin Spacey, Jessica Lange, Brad Pitt, Stephen Hawking, Paulo Coelho and Julian Schnabel. Woody Allen held the worldwide premiere of the movie «Cassandra’s Dream» at the centre and he is also the President of Honour of the Film Centre where he is a content advisor.
The Route of Santiago meets at Aviles via two routes. On one side, there is the “Northern Route” which runs along the Atlantic coast joining the small fishing villages along to the Cantabrian Sea. The other route called «El Salvador Route» starts from the “French Way” in the city of Leon, which travels into Asturias to visit in the cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo and the relics of the Holy House. Then from Oviedo the route meanders toward the Aviles route and continues along eventually joining the coastal road before moving on to Santiago de Compostela. Both routes meet up at the city centre and it is at this point where you will find the Pilgrims’ Hostel.
For nature lovers, Aviles is just beside the Council of Castrillón which is well know as the area of the seven beaches, one of them being the most important dune system in Asturias, Espartal beach. Other beaches of special importance for their spectacular locations are the Beachs of Bayas and Deva, both having been declared Natural Monuments due to their landscape, vegetation and ornithology.
Aviles also offers plenty of activities such as surfing, biking, trekking and golf to mention but a few.
People of Aviles are fun, warm and welcoming. They love to celebrate and to enjoy their town and the outdoors. The most popular parties are their very original Carnival, the bonfires of San Juan, and the “Bollu Day” where they enjoy locally made Sweet Bread Roll and council hosts a massive lunch on the streets which is open for all to attend.
In July in Aviles, you can enjoy the “The Interceltic Festival”, declared to be of Touristic Interest and the “Festival of Narrative of Science Fiction, Fantasy and Horror CELCIUS 232”.
For more information you can read the article by Paul Richardson for The Guardian Newspaper
More info: Aviles Tourist Office
If you want more information contact Where is Asturias at info@whereisasturias.com
Castrillon council lies between The Cabo Peñas and the mouth of the Nalón River and it is formed by the areas of Avilés, Castrillón, Corvera and Illas. This county is in very close proximity to the Airport of Asturias.
The impressive beauty of this area lies together with one of the most important industries in Asturias, the steel and chemical industry and plays host some of the most important international companies in these sectors such as Arcerol Mittal and Du Pont.
The Cabo Peñas is the most northern part of Asturias with cliffs over 100 metres high where stone and sandy areas alternate with dune ecosystems as Verdicio or Xago. It is one of the main attractions of Asturias for its beauty and impressive views to the Sea, the beaches and The Picos de Europa. The lighthouse becomes the Interpretation Centre of the area and its diverse and unique ecosystems. Another impressive lighthouse of the area is in San Juan de Nieva, overlooking the Aviles estuary.
Castrillon is a part of the «Northern Route« of the «Route of Saint James» and you can access many other walking route.
Castrillon council, bathed by the Atlantic Ocean and the Cantabric Sea, is well known as the county of the seven beaches.
One of the most important is the beach of El Espartal in the resort town of Salinas, which has the largest dune system in Asturias. Other beaches of special importance for their spectacular location are the Beachs of Bayas and Deva, both been declared Natural Monuments due to their landscape, vegetation and ornithology where you can spot among others European Shags, Peregrine Falcons and Yellow-legged Gulls.
Other beaches in Castrillon are Arnao, Bahinas, El Cuerno, El Puerto, Munielles, Reguero, Sablon and Santa Maria del Mar.
The gastronomy of Castrillon is traditional Asturian food but thanks to its proximity with the sea it enjoys a lot of fish dishes and amazing seafood. They have also their own cheeses and desserts.
Along with the city of Aviles, the most important villages and towns in the County of Castrillon are:
Castrillon: The main village in Castrillon is the modern and busy village of Piedras Blancas. At the end of Piedras Blancas you will find Salinas, a very stylish and relaxed maritime town with one of the best sandy beaches in Asturias, the Beach of the Espartal with the largest dune system in Asturias.
In Castrillon you can enjoy many driving, walking and biking Routes. Also you can visit the Arbedales Mountain Cave.
Salinas and its surrounds area are very popular with surfers from all over the world and during the month of July, the International Festival of Long board is held. The festival holds a long board surfing competition and also many quality music concerts and parties.
Also, you can’t leave this area without visiting the outdoor Anchor Museum of Philippe Cousteau (Son of the famous Jacques Cousteau), located in the “Peñona de Salinas”
Salinas is also home to one of the seven Michelin Stared Restaurants in Asturias.
More info: Castrillon Tourist Office
If you want more information contact Where is Asturias at info@whereisasturias.com
Images supplied by Tomás Fano, Ayto de Castrillon, Ayto de Corvera, Ayto de Illas, and Turismo Asturias: Arnaud Späni, Camilo Alonso, Marcelo Alonso, Jose Antonio Carretero, Marcos Vega.